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Persisting vibration-'09 Extra Cab

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Afternoon, folks....

I have an '09 Extra Cab, 4.0 Sohc 2WD...

I have had a persisting vibration (starting at about 40-45mph) I hit a dog at about 60 mph (worst night of my life) and its been an issue ever since. I have replaced the wheels with aftermarket as at least 2 of them were bent. I had to drive on the bent wheels for a while, so I guess my question is...Is it possible that I have messed up the front hub and/or rear axle by driving on the bent wheels for a while? The vibration continues, even after replacing the wheels. I'm going to have them re-balanced at next oil change, but I'm wondering if the problem isn't deeper than that. Thanks in advance for all feedback and help

Lift Inquiry

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Is it a waste of time and money to install 2" lift springs if I can simply get 2 inches of lift from cranking the torsion bar? I'm lifting the rear a couple inches with longer shackles which is super easy. The spring replacement is a whole other ballgame. I'm trying to save myself a major headache. Any thoughts?

Thank you.

1999 Ford Ranger auto hubs not working?

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I have a 1999 Ford Ranger. Just purchased this truck a couple of days ago. I been looking at the forum and everyone seems to suggest going to the manual hubs. I found these E-USA Racing front wheel bearing hub assembly's on ebay and was wondering if anyone had any luck with them? The auto 4x4 stopped working and the front lines on the truck pretty much shot. Don't know how long the lives have been off so I am assuming the assembly is probably damaged from moisture and dirt. Would appreciate any comments thanks so much.

E-USA link:
1pair Front Wheel Hub Bearing FIT98 00 Ford Ranger Mazda B Series Pickup 4WD 4x4 | eBay

How to check engien on 95 4cyl ford ranger

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Hi, I have a 95 4cyl ford ranger and I have a check engine light I would like to check but am having trouble finding a port to plug in to diagnose it.. I've looked under the driver side and can't find anything there I've looked under the hood and can't find anything for an EEC hookup. Online it said for a 95 it's an EEC and it should be located behind the battery next to the fuse box but there's nothing there. Looked all over the truck and can't find ****. Starting to frustrate me I would appreciate a detailed description of where it's located and how to diagnose it if possible thanks, I would appreciate it greatly

06 ranger New to forums

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Hey Guys, I recently bought this 2006 XLT 4.0 auto 4x4 one owner truck, got it really cheap and couldn't pass it up. Just over 108k when i bought it. Been lurking around for a little while finally decided to join and contribute. Here are some pictures of the truck when i got it.


This truck is victim to the infamous rear frame rot...

01 Ranger new to the forums

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Hey all. I just picked up an 01 Ranger on Craigslist. I have been lurking around the forums lately as I did my research to find out what flavor of Ranger I wanted to get. Specs:

2001 Ford Ranger XLT
Super Cab 4D
4.0L SOHC
4x4
5-spd Manual
137K Miles

They were asking $4500, I talked them down to $4000.

I believe it has the leak in the rear window or third brake light. I also plan to rip out the carpet and install the vinyl floor. Here are some photos from the ad:


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92 Ranger 4.0 4×4 A4LD Auto transmission issue

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I am very familiar with engines, but not so much with transmissions. Here is the question:
Tree gear selector, choices are R N D with a circle around it(overdrive) D 2 1 when selecting any of these the marker does not sit in the middle of the the D but on the left of the D, it does engage however
When it is in circle D, it feels like it is in overdrive from the start, very little power and doesn't shift in anyway shape or form. Put it in D and it shifts through 1 to 4th gear with power and no issues. I am almost done with the full engine rebuild and the trans will be next. Any suggestions? The trans also look fairly clean/recent for the qge of the truck, just bought the truck, seller didn't know
Thank you

How to best drive stick for mpg's

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Hey all,

I got a new 2008 Ranger XL, 2.3L, rwd, 5speed manual

I'm testing the best mpg's on her, and want to know if it's bad for the truck when I shift a bit earlier and get a bid of vibration

Those who drive stick should know what I'm talking about. The tranny and clutch are all perfect, it's just the driving method. Of course 1st gear doesn't have this, but if I shift to other gears at low enough rpm's to save on gas, there can be some vibration (not grinding, just a low vibration) until the rpm's pick back up. I would usually shift around 2k rpm, but any earlier and I'll get that vibration, especially in 3rd-5th gear. Also, if I shift to 3rd for a turn, instead of 2nd.

Is this a good practice or bad?

Thanks
Nick

RPMs rise when shifting

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I have a 97 with a 3.0 in it. My problem is when I push in the clutch pedal the RPMs rise to almost 3,000 and then takes it time coming down. Is this a sign that my throttle position sensor is going out?

2008 2.3L Low idle/Stall

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I have a 2008 Ranger XL with 2.3L I4 with 69,000KM.

3 days ago it started having a low idle(4-500RPM) and will stall out due to the extremely low idle. If you hold 10-20% throttle it will start and run no problem and is drive-able until you have to stop at a light and it will stall. It does not appear to be down on power while driving it like this and after it is warm it will actually idle without stalling but still a low idle at 5-600RPM.

The weird thing is it has also run perfectly fine a couple times after this has started. I drove it home from work idling low, went inside to change and came back out to work on it and it fired up completely normal and idled perfectly. Same thing when I went for lunch the next day.

I have occasionally had a high idle in the past as well, up to 2000RPM, but only during extremely cold winter days, and usually only after a long highway drive. When coming to a stop it will stay revved at 2k RPM until you come to a complete stop and then drop to regular idle.

It has a fresh air filter. I have checked the resistance on the TPS sensor and it seems to be ok and not spike. I have checked the resistance on the IAC and it checked within spec. I unplugged the IAC while the truck was running and it made a noticable drop in RPM which leads me to believe it is working correctly. I have unplugged the battery to reset the system. Battery sits at 12.7V and 14.4V at idle.

The only thing I have recently changed is the battery about 3 days prior to this beginning to happen. I can't see it being the root of the problem but I plan on taking it back and having it tested just to be sure. It cranks strong and seems to have a good standing and idle voltage.

Thoughts?

93 - 97 factory headers (almost)

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I know their not a true performance mod but i want them anyway - got a set for $65, may be high but their mine now. On their way now.

1. Will they need a diff gasket or same as cast manifold - I will have to get a new one.

2. Are the bolts the same or diff - I think longer ?

3. I know about adding the oxy sensor bung if it does not have one.

4. What is the bolt size for new header - I want order SS bolts.


Advantages

1. They bolt on with few changes
2. I'm going to get them ceramic coated.
3. After on,I am going to have new exhaust dual. with flowmaster 40's installed

3.0 flex fuel rebuild help!

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Rebuilding my 99 3.0 flex fuel motor, but cant find a master rebuild kit, or even main or connecting rod bearings for that matter, does anyone know where they sell any online? Thanks in advance!

First time trying out the Gopro

New design

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Heres a design for my single cab 02 manual ranger wanting to know yalls opinion

http://s1299.photobucket.com/user/ehailey16/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-02/828D7892-5D5B-4973-A471-93F2E08B8C29_zpst1hqgu3m.jpg.html

Manual 2000 Ranger Studders at low RPMs?

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Guys I have beaten my head against the wall on this for sometime now. My truck has 180,000 miles. I put a new clutch on my truck about 14 months ago. New Fuel Filter about 10 months ago. New plugs, wires, one fuel injector, and coil pack last week and the problem persists.

The engine idles fine, a slight vibration but nothing extreme. When I go to accelerate I have to give it more gas than normal or it starts to shudder and feel like its about to stall. While driving, I have to keep the RPMs above 2K or the engine studders and again feels as though it is about to stall. I can not even get into 5th because I basically have to be doing 85 in order to reach 2K rpms in fifth. I do not hear any strange noises coming from the engine or powertrain. My concern is this is a transmission problem but I have no idea how to narrow the problem down to engine or transmission.

Thanks

measurement help.

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How did you guys who did a Dana 30 or any solid axle swap measure the axle up to the truck to make sure everything is straight? Any into greatly appreciated!!!!

Still work in progress

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Picked up a 2007 about 2 years ago for my business. Still working on it.

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Want to Buy: 2003 3.0 underdrive pulley

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looking for one of these PM please

1991 4.0 V6 Fuel Pressure

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I have been having a problem with hard hot starts for a while now, and Im looking to replace my fuel pump and/or fuel pressure regulator. I checked the pressure and it looks to be 28 at idle and about 26 at 3000 rpm. I couldn't find a definite answer to whether or not this is low, but the consensus said it was.

What should the fuel pressure read on my fuel system??

Help me diagnose my problem (maybe transmission)

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I've had my ranger for about a year. Bought it with 99,000 miles. Just hit 110,000. I noticed when I bought it last year, I could get this weird vibration feeling in the gas pedal. It seems to be more noticeable now. Paying attention to my gauges when I get this vibration feeling, my RPM's seems to be "stuck" at the lower range of the gear. If I mash on the gas pedal, my RPM's stay constant and I get this vibration feeling in the gas. If I let off the pedal completely, and then step on it, my RPM's shoot up, and I do not feel the vibration.


Is this my transmission getting stuck and not shifting? Any ideas?
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