I have a 96 ranger I just got, its 2wd on 33s with long arms and bilstein shocks and high jacker springs. when I corner to the right the steering wheel shakes violently and the whole truck shakes. it is only to the right and it is worse when I am going slower around 20mph. if anyone has any idea on what this could be any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
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extreme shaking when turning
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2000 Ranger idle/hesitation issues
Hi guys and gals,
I have done alot of searching but havent found anything exactly like my problem.
So I just picked up a 2000 ranger 2.5 5 speed 2wd.
When driving part throttle it is perfectly fine. However if you go full throttle or put a large load on the motor, like turning a corner in 2nd gear at like 20 mph then trying to accelerate, it sputters and has a hesitation issue. It doesn't throw a misfire code though.
The other problem is if I let the revs fall from say 2500+ the motor will die. If it falls from below 2500 the motor will catch itself.
It idles perfectly fine when it does catch itself around 750 rpms, however the idle stop is all the way out and not touching the throttle blade.
If I pull a vacuum hose off there is no change in the idle, it does throw the ST fuel trims up to like 40-50 if I pull a vacuum line off. It normally bounces between -4% and +5% while idling/cruising. LT is like 1%
Here is what I have tested/replaced.
IAC valve has been replaced
New wires and plugs
new coolant temp sensor
Fuel filter looks brand new, no rust on it still shiny silver
I pulled off the intake manifold and cleaned it out, put new gaskets on.
Injectors ohm tested fine at 14.6 each
FPR doesnt have any fuel in the vac line, and looks like it has been replaced at some point due to the return line being bright blue.
Cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner, however it looked like it was cleaned by the PO, and I dont know what he used.
TPS reads 15.6% (on my scan tool) when the throttle is closed and 78% when it is wide open. This makes me believe that it is bad and not letting the IAC do its job since the TPS never falls under 15%
PO had a new timing belt put on a month ago.
When I bought the truck it had a #2 misfire code and wouldn't idle at all if cold, but that was a loose #2 plug once I found that the misfire code hasnt come back.
I am not sure what the next step is. MAF? TPS? CAT? Something I havent thought of?
I have done alot of searching but havent found anything exactly like my problem.
So I just picked up a 2000 ranger 2.5 5 speed 2wd.
When driving part throttle it is perfectly fine. However if you go full throttle or put a large load on the motor, like turning a corner in 2nd gear at like 20 mph then trying to accelerate, it sputters and has a hesitation issue. It doesn't throw a misfire code though.
The other problem is if I let the revs fall from say 2500+ the motor will die. If it falls from below 2500 the motor will catch itself.
It idles perfectly fine when it does catch itself around 750 rpms, however the idle stop is all the way out and not touching the throttle blade.
If I pull a vacuum hose off there is no change in the idle, it does throw the ST fuel trims up to like 40-50 if I pull a vacuum line off. It normally bounces between -4% and +5% while idling/cruising. LT is like 1%
Here is what I have tested/replaced.
IAC valve has been replaced
New wires and plugs
new coolant temp sensor
Fuel filter looks brand new, no rust on it still shiny silver
I pulled off the intake manifold and cleaned it out, put new gaskets on.
Injectors ohm tested fine at 14.6 each
FPR doesnt have any fuel in the vac line, and looks like it has been replaced at some point due to the return line being bright blue.
Cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner, however it looked like it was cleaned by the PO, and I dont know what he used.
TPS reads 15.6% (on my scan tool) when the throttle is closed and 78% when it is wide open. This makes me believe that it is bad and not letting the IAC do its job since the TPS never falls under 15%
PO had a new timing belt put on a month ago.
When I bought the truck it had a #2 misfire code and wouldn't idle at all if cold, but that was a loose #2 plug once I found that the misfire code hasnt come back.
I am not sure what the next step is. MAF? TPS? CAT? Something I havent thought of?
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CANNOT find EVTM. Can someone help??
Ok I'm stuck on my wiring on my swap until I can verify the new pinouts in the Ranger to Expo harness and I don't want to pay $64 just so I can look at a diagram for this. There HAS to be someone with a 2003 Ranger 4.0 4WD ECU diagram somewhere. I've Googled and shopped around on Ebay and random sites for hours now and I've seen lots of years, but not an 03 except brand new for the $64. I'd go with the 01 and 02 I saw, but it looked altered and it's a year off, so who knows if Ford changed it.
Anyone have access to this???
Thanks.
Anyone have access to this???
Thanks.
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clogged fuel injector?
Well I finally took my truck to a family member who has worked on Fords all his life and has his own garage. As I said before my check engine light stopped working period. Anyway he ran the eec rest on it with his computer and it's not throwing any codes.but occasionally it will run too rich and idle rough. He seems to think it's a clogged fuel injector. Any ideas? Also why would one of the previous owners have put a radiator for an automatic in it? Preciate any comments or suggestions.
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Lost Cruise Control on 2007 Ranger
It started with the cruise control turning off every once in a while. Then it would only stay on for 7-8 seconds, then eventually it would turn on, then shut right off.
Now it won't even turn on.
When I did the diagnosis sequence (On, Resume, Coast, Set....) it blinked 3 times saying "Bad deactivation switch or circuit"
So I replaced the blue switch on the brake pedal and it still doesn't engage.
It's a 4.0 liter with a manual tranny.
I've been researching this a lot, and it seems in 2007 they changed up things probably because of the big recall.
I don't see any kind of deactivation switch around the master cylinder. It seems that was in use until 2006 or 2005.
I see a different kind of switch on the clutch pedal, thinking it must also have a deactivation switch. I see a long spring loaded type of switch with about 5-6 wires coming out of it, but I can't find any info on the web about that switch.
All three of my brake lights are working.
Does anyone have any thoughts?
It seemed to deteriorate rather quickly (Over the course of 3 days) and now it's completely dead.
Thanks.
Now it won't even turn on.
When I did the diagnosis sequence (On, Resume, Coast, Set....) it blinked 3 times saying "Bad deactivation switch or circuit"
So I replaced the blue switch on the brake pedal and it still doesn't engage.
It's a 4.0 liter with a manual tranny.
I've been researching this a lot, and it seems in 2007 they changed up things probably because of the big recall.
I don't see any kind of deactivation switch around the master cylinder. It seems that was in use until 2006 or 2005.
I see a different kind of switch on the clutch pedal, thinking it must also have a deactivation switch. I see a long spring loaded type of switch with about 5-6 wires coming out of it, but I can't find any info on the web about that switch.
All three of my brake lights are working.
Does anyone have any thoughts?
It seemed to deteriorate rather quickly (Over the course of 3 days) and now it's completely dead.
Thanks.
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Alternator & battery
Replaced my Alt Twice lately. Will last 2 weeks and blows. Battery gauge flickering constantly. No other gauge flickering.... any ideas, new Ranger owner. All wiring from alt to battery is legit. Replaced terminals on battery. Dont know what else to do. Please help
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new to this, have a question for ya
I'm on the verge of purchasing a 1989 ranger off of craigslist and wanted to know if there's anything I should check that could possibly be a deal changer on the purchase. Here's what I know, it's a 1989 extended cab with 98000 miles on it for under $2k. That's the basis that I'm going off, now if there's any pointers that I should look at before buying? I'm new to rangers in general and would like some insight on what to look for. Thank you
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Interchangeable front bumpers
Had a fender-bender with my 02 4x4. I need a new front bumper, and unfortunately nothing to be found at any salvage yards or classifieds in a 50+ mile radius... I've found a few reasonable ones online, but noticed there is quite a price difference between the 2wd bumper and 4wd bumper. Can anyone tell me the difference? They both look the same to me. Also, I was wondering has anyone tried putting a bumper off any other vehicle on their ranger and it look ok? Thanks.
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Want to Buy: WTB 17 inch section of jack handle
I am looking for one of the 17 inch extension pieces of the jack handle. It is the one that has a square male fitting on one end and a square female fitting on the other end with the little ball fastener to hold it together. It's for a 2011 Ranger 2 x 4.
Steve.........
Steve.........
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Headers
So, I have a 05 ranger 4.0 v6. I wanna replace the headers, but im not too sure on which to get. Does anyone have any recommendations? and would I have to do a tuner?
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2000 Ranger 3.0 Automatic. Trans jerking in OD. Now squealing and hard shifts.
Help Master Mechanics...Been following the forums for years but I am lost now on what the problem I have.
Spent hours trying to find out what trans I have. Ford dealer ran the vin and says I have a 4r55e. Ford Ranger Automatic Transmission Identification says I have a 4r44e. Pepboys says I have a 5r55e. Not sure if it identifies it but this is on the trans.. RFXL2P-7006-AB 750Nm. 95GT-7A040-8A.
On to the strange problem. Its been running a little rough and once in a while I will get misfire codes from Cylinder 1&6 . Just started to notice when the car is in OD doing about 60mph it will jerk or serge a little. I thought maybe it was the misfire. If I turn off the OD it does not do it anymore.. Been getting worse last few weeks. Have never had any codes for transmission. Have had a few on O2 sensors error codes.
So I replaced all three O2 sensors and then the new problem started. I drove it once with the new sensors and rand about the same. I turned the car off and when starting and driving again I noticed the motor was much louder and shifted harder in all the gears. Also it started to squeal a little. Once it gets into OD its kind of ok but if push off the OD button is squeals getting back into drive.
So since it got much worse after putting the new O2 sensors I decide to put the old ones back in. Well it switched back to normal and much smoother also the motor was quiet again and shifted the same with light jerking in OD.
Now I put back in each new O2 sensor and drove it before putting the next to see if one sensor was bad. But I put all three and was fine. Then after driving for 20 miles when I was playin with the OD button it got loud again and squealing again. I disconnected the battery for 2 hours to see if it would reset and no luck.
So what do you think? Sticking solenoid? Maybe MAF going bad? I got new oil and filter ready to install and bought a 1/4 drive torque so I can adjust the OD Band. Not sure if I should put a shift kit and change solenoids and valve body gasket.? I would hate to do all this and have the same problem and need a full rebuild.
I will also try disconnecting MAf and see if it drives different. Again no codes using my AutoXray scanner.
Anyone got any ideas? Thanks....
http://www.ranger-forums.com/rf/foru...lies/irked.gif
2000 Ford Ranger
V6 3.0 flex fuel
2 WD
Automatic trans
250,000 miles
Only owned it for 20k miles
Fluid level good
No Leaks
Only codes I get is Cylinder 1&6 misfire
Just changed all 3 O2 Sensors
OD light does not flash and works fine.
Casting on trans.
RFXL2P-7006-AB
750Nm. 95GT-7A040-8A
Vin Number
1FTYR14V4YTB11441
Spent hours trying to find out what trans I have. Ford dealer ran the vin and says I have a 4r55e. Ford Ranger Automatic Transmission Identification says I have a 4r44e. Pepboys says I have a 5r55e. Not sure if it identifies it but this is on the trans.. RFXL2P-7006-AB 750Nm. 95GT-7A040-8A.
On to the strange problem. Its been running a little rough and once in a while I will get misfire codes from Cylinder 1&6 . Just started to notice when the car is in OD doing about 60mph it will jerk or serge a little. I thought maybe it was the misfire. If I turn off the OD it does not do it anymore.. Been getting worse last few weeks. Have never had any codes for transmission. Have had a few on O2 sensors error codes.
So I replaced all three O2 sensors and then the new problem started. I drove it once with the new sensors and rand about the same. I turned the car off and when starting and driving again I noticed the motor was much louder and shifted harder in all the gears. Also it started to squeal a little. Once it gets into OD its kind of ok but if push off the OD button is squeals getting back into drive.
So since it got much worse after putting the new O2 sensors I decide to put the old ones back in. Well it switched back to normal and much smoother also the motor was quiet again and shifted the same with light jerking in OD.
Now I put back in each new O2 sensor and drove it before putting the next to see if one sensor was bad. But I put all three and was fine. Then after driving for 20 miles when I was playin with the OD button it got loud again and squealing again. I disconnected the battery for 2 hours to see if it would reset and no luck.
So what do you think? Sticking solenoid? Maybe MAF going bad? I got new oil and filter ready to install and bought a 1/4 drive torque so I can adjust the OD Band. Not sure if I should put a shift kit and change solenoids and valve body gasket.? I would hate to do all this and have the same problem and need a full rebuild.
I will also try disconnecting MAf and see if it drives different. Again no codes using my AutoXray scanner.
Anyone got any ideas? Thanks....
http://www.ranger-forums.com/rf/foru...lies/irked.gif
2000 Ford Ranger
V6 3.0 flex fuel
2 WD
Automatic trans
250,000 miles
Only owned it for 20k miles
Fluid level good
No Leaks
Only codes I get is Cylinder 1&6 misfire
Just changed all 3 O2 Sensors
OD light does not flash and works fine.
Casting on trans.
RFXL2P-7006-AB
750Nm. 95GT-7A040-8A
Vin Number
1FTYR14V4YTB11441
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Sound Plausible?
I recently posted an issue I'm having with my truck's tranny/clutch. It was losing travel, engaging right off the floor instead of mid-travel like normal. Gears getting tougher to get into.
Mechanic bled the clutch, signficiant air in the line. Performed beautifully. Of course, it's started to get worse again now, as the cause of the leak was not fixed.
Mechanic has suggested it is likely the slave release bearing/hydraulic actuator for the release bearing. While I am reasonably mechanically inclined, I do not know the system well enough to know if this is a plausible explanation. I would assume he is referring to a seal in this area being the issue.
Just thought I'd look for second opinions before I drop a chunk of change on getting this fixed. I have neither the time nor desire to wrench in my -15C snowy driveway to learn to do this myself.
Thanks!
Mechanic bled the clutch, signficiant air in the line. Performed beautifully. Of course, it's started to get worse again now, as the cause of the leak was not fixed.
Mechanic has suggested it is likely the slave release bearing/hydraulic actuator for the release bearing. While I am reasonably mechanically inclined, I do not know the system well enough to know if this is a plausible explanation. I would assume he is referring to a seal in this area being the issue.
Just thought I'd look for second opinions before I drop a chunk of change on getting this fixed. I have neither the time nor desire to wrench in my -15C snowy driveway to learn to do this myself.
Thanks!
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What would YOU pay?
Don't take into consider my location, but I want to know what YOU would offer on my truck.
2006 4.0 auto level II
3" BL, 75% 33" hankook MT full size spare
Mbrp turndown
Tuned
Custom hood
All new shocks
Rebuilt rear end 30k miles ago
Component door speakers
10" sub+amp
Pioneer HU.
Etc.
140,000 MILES (not kms)
Good shape, few minor dings in the body, bed inside is banged up good.
Let's hear it.
2006 4.0 auto level II
3" BL, 75% 33" hankook MT full size spare
Mbrp turndown
Tuned
Custom hood
All new shocks
Rebuilt rear end 30k miles ago
Component door speakers
10" sub+amp
Pioneer HU.
Etc.
140,000 MILES (not kms)
Good shape, few minor dings in the body, bed inside is banged up good.
Let's hear it.
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2003 check engine light beow 60 degrees
I have a 2003 3.o flex fuel during winter months when tempature is below 60 degrees it idles rough and the check engine light comes on as soon as the weather warms up the check engine light goes off after 60 miles whats causesing this does not happen in summer months
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bucks at 70 mph
when i try to pass at 70 mph pressing the gas it tries to downshift and bucks
5speed auto 127k
5speed auto 127k
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running rich, smoking
Once again this thing is still running too rich and it's smoking because of it. Has a rough idle because of it,check engine light not working. What is the problem?
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help
What's up I'm John,
I got a lil bit of money on my income tax and want to put a little into my 2005 ranger 3.0 . I'm looking for either taller wheels and a front end lift kit or maybe a role bar. Im not wanting to spend a lot but I want my ranger to stand tall what do you suggest?
I got a lil bit of money on my income tax and want to put a little into my 2005 ranger 3.0 . I'm looking for either taller wheels and a front end lift kit or maybe a role bar. Im not wanting to spend a lot but I want my ranger to stand tall what do you suggest?
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Want to Buy: body lift
Does the 200$ summit racing 3' body lift fit a 99 ford ranger??
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94 Little Red Danger Ranger
Hi everybody. I've been rebuilding my baby 94 Ford Ranger 4x2 XLT Splash 2.3L California emissions which means it's a big pain in my a$$. At 260 thousand plus some miles just did a bottom end rebuild.
I love this forum for lots of insight on how to get better performance what to do and not to do....so I look forward to being part of this community.
BTW I'm a amateur mechanic also nobody else touches my truck...lol.
I love this forum for lots of insight on how to get better performance what to do and not to do....so I look forward to being part of this community.
BTW I'm a amateur mechanic also nobody else touches my truck...lol.
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99 2.5 no spark or fuel
co worker has a 99 single cab with a 2.5 auto. no spark when cranking and no fuel pump, jumped the pump and it works, replaced the ecu and still nothing... any idea? I know the Expys had an issue with the fuse panels causing the same type issue.. anything like that on the rangers?
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